Forget your modern bullet trains and sleek electric locomotives – in the heart of Snowdonia, there’s a rather more romantic way to travel. The Ffestiniog and Welsh Highland Railways offer journeys that are less about getting from A to B, and more about discovering what happened to the rest of the alphabet along the way. These magnificent heritage railways transport you through some of Wales’s most spectacular scenery and whisk you back to an age when steam was king and the journey mattered more than the destination.
Let’s start with the granddaddy of them all – the Ffestiniog Railway. As the world’s oldest independent railway company (established 1832, when William IV was on the throne and most people still thought trains were witchcraft), this plucky little line has been huffing and puffing its way through the Welsh mountains for nearly two centuries. Originally built to transport slate from the quarries of Blaenau Ffestiniog to Porthmadog harbour, it’s now in the business of transporting wonder-struck visitors.
The 13.5-mile journey from Porthmadog to Blaenau Ffestiniog is an engineering marvel. The track climbs over 700 feet through Snowdonia National Park, tackling gravity with the sort of determination only a narrow-gauge railway can muster. There are horseshoe bends that would make a mountain goat dizzy, a spiral that looks like it was designed by a railway enthusiast after one too many Welsh ales, and tunnels that prove the Victorians weren’t afraid of a bit of heavy drilling.
Travelling in beautifully restored carriages pulled by historic steam locomotives, you’ll experience the sights, sounds, and smells of a bygone era. That distinctive chuff-chuff-chuff of the engine, the whistle echoing off the mountainsides, the whiff of steam and coal smoke – it’s like being in a living, breathing history book, only with more comfortable seating and less cholera.
Not to be outdone, the Welsh Highland Railway offers its own brand of magic. Running 25 miles from the mighty Caernarfon Castle to Porthmadog, this line serves up views of Snowdon that’ll have you fumbling for your camera faster than you can say “steam-powered selfie.” The journey takes you past mountains, through valleys, and alongside rushing rivers, with every turn offering another “wow” moment.
While the Welsh Highland Railway might be the younger sibling (it was restored and reopened in 2011), it’s certainly no slouch in the heritage department. The carriages offer a perfect blend of vintage charm and modern comfort – think observation cars with panoramic views, rather than Victorian-era drafts. It’s like travelling in a mobile country house, complete with stunning views of the Welsh countryside.
For the full experience, start your journey in Caernarfon, where the imposing bulk of Edward I’s castle reminds you that the Welsh Highland Railway isn’t the only impressive feat of engineering in town. As you chuff your way through Snowdonia, you’ll pass through Beddgelert, a village so pretty it looks like it was designed by a committee of artists and poets. Stop here to learn about the legendary faithful hound Gelert (bring tissues – it’s not a happy tale), or simply to enjoy a Welsh cream tea.
Tan-y-Bwlch station on the Ffestiniog Railway is another highlight, featuring a café that serves up treats as delightful as the surrounding views. The woodland walks here are perfect for stretching your legs and working up an appetite for another slice of bara brith.
Now, some practical tips to ensure your railway adventure runs as smoothly as a well-oiled locomotive. First up, book in advance, especially in peak season – these trains are popular, and for good reason. Check the timetable carefully, as services vary throughout the year. The weather in Snowdonia can be as changeable as a signal box operator’s mood, so dress in layers and be prepared for all conditions.
Both railways offer accessible carriages, but it’s worth checking their websites for specific details and booking in advance. And while both lines offer various journey options, from quick trips to full-day adventures, we’d recommend taking your time. These railways weren’t built for rushing – they were built for savouring.
Whether you’re a railway enthusiast who knows their coupling rods from their slide valves, or simply someone who appreciates beautiful journeys through stunning landscapes, these railways offer something special. They’re a reminder of a time when travel was an adventure, when engineering was an art form, and when the journey really was as important as the destination.
So climb aboard, find your seat, and settle in for an adventure through some of Wales’s most spectacular scenery. Just try not to get too carried away with your train whistle impressions – leave that to the professionals! And remember, while the views might tempt you to hang out of the window for that perfect photo, it’s probably best to keep all limbs inside the carriage. Those Victorian tunnels can be rather snug!
