The Coleridge Way is a 51-mile trail winding through the breathtaking landscapes of Somerset and Devon. This trail, named after the great Samuel Taylor Coleridge, meanders through the Quantock Hills, the Brendon Hills, and Exmoor, offering a delightful smorgasbord of English countryside. Walkers of this trail will find themselves striding through ancient woodlands, crossing babbling streams, and cresting hills to reveal sweeping views that stretch all the way to the Bristol Channel.
Starting in the charming village of Nether Stowey, where Coleridge once lived, the trail takes you on a literary and literal adventure. The Coleridge Cottage, now a National Trust property, is worth a gander before you set off. It’s here that the poet penned some of his most famous works, including “The Rime of the Ancient Mariner” and “Kubla Khan”. Who knows? You might absorb some poetic prowess through osmosis.
Now, before you lace up those boots and set off, let’s talk logistics. The Coleridge Way can be tackled in either direction, but most folks start in Nether Stowey and end in Lynmouth. The full 51-mile journey typically takes between 4 to 6 days, depending on your pace and how often you stop to pen a sonnet or two. For those of you who prefer your poetry with a side of planning, here’s a taste of what your first day might look like on a 4-day Coleridge Way adventure:
Day 1: Nether Stowey to Bicknoller (11 miles) Your poetic pilgrimage begins at Coleridge Cottage in Nether Stowey. Take a moment to soak in the atmosphere – this is where the magic happened from 1797 to 1799. As you leave the village behind, you’ll find yourself climbing into the Quantock Hills. Fair warning: your calves might protest, but your eyes will thank you. The panoramic views of the Bristol Channel are worth every step.
As you continue your journey, you’ll pass through the villages of Holford and Aisholt. These quintessential English hamlets are perfect for a mid-hike refuel. Whether you fancy a pint at a quaint pub or a cream tea in a charming tearoom, you’ll find plenty of options to keep your energy up.
Your day ends in Bicknoller, a village that looks like it’s been plucked straight from a postcard. The 12th-century church is a must-see – it’s seen more history than most of us have had hot dinners. As you rest your weary feet, take a moment to reflect on your day’s journey. You’ve not just walked 11 miles; you’ve followed in the footsteps of one of England’s greatest poets.
Day 2: Bicknoller to Wheddon Cross (12 miles) Your second day on the Coleridge Way promises to be a feast for the senses. You’ll be traversing the Brendon Hills, a hidden treasure of the West Country that’s often overshadowed by its more famous neighbours. But don’t let that fool you – these hills have charm in spades and views that’ll have you fumbling for your camera (or quill, if you’re really getting into the spirit).
As you huff and puff your way up the hills, keep an eye out for the Coleridge Way Monument. It’s a fitting tribute to old Sam and a perfect spot for a breather. Take a moment to ponder the connection between the landscape and the poet’s words – or just use the time to catch your breath and munch on an energy bar. We won’t judge.
Your path will lead you through the villages of Monksilver and Elworthy. If you thought you’d stepped back in time yesterday, just wait until you see these places. With their historic churches and thatched cottages, they’re like something straight out of a period drama. The Notley Arms in Monksilver is a particular gem – if you time it right, you might just catch them serving lunch. A ploughman’s and a pint could be just the thing to power you through the afternoon.
Your day’s journey ends in Wheddon Cross, the highest village on Exmoor. Unlike some of the sleepier spots you’ve passed through, Wheddon Cross has a variety of shops and amenities here, perfect for restocking your supplies or treating yourself to a hearty dinner. You’ve earned it after all – you’ve just conquered 12 miles of some of England’s most beautiful countryside.
Day 3: Wheddon Cross to Exford (10 miles) It’s day three, and the Coleridge Way has saved some of its best tricks for today. You’re about to enter Exmoor National Park, a wildly beautiful expanse of moorland, forests, and rivers that would have any poet worth their salt scrambling for a pen. Coleridge himself described this landscape as “the land of shapeless silence,” though between you and me, I think he might have just been having a quiet day.
As you set off from Wheddon Cross, keep your eyes peeled for Dunkery Beacon looming in the distance. At 1,705 feet, it’s the highest point on Exmoor and offers views that’ll make your heart sing. Don’t worry, you won’t be climbing it today (unless you’re feeling particularly energetic), but the sight of it is enough to make you feel on top of the world.
Your path will lead you through Winsford, a village so picturesque it looks like it’s been arranged by a particularly fastidious set designer. With its thatched cottages, babbling ford, and historic bridge, it’s the perfect spot for a mid-hike breather.
Your day’s journey ends in Exford, a place that’s been welcoming Exmoor explorers for generations. It’s a bit of a hub by Exmoor standards, which means you’ll have your pick of places to rest your head. From cosy B&Bs to traditional inns, you’re sure to find somewhere that suits your fancy.
Day 4: Exford to Lynmouth (11 miles) This section of the walk comes the promise of some of the most spectacular scenery yet. Today, you’ll be hiking through the very heart of Exmoor, a landscape so wild and beautiful it might just inspire you to pen a few verses of your own. No pressure, though – Coleridge set the bar pretty high with his “Kubla Khan.”
As you leave Exford behind, you’ll find yourself surrounded by the untamed beauty of Exmoor. Rolling hills, deep valleys, and windswept moors stretch out before you. Keep your eyes peeled for Exmoor ponies – these hardy little creatures have roamed these hills since ancient times. They’re as much a part of the landscape as the heather and gorse.
Your path will lead you to the Valley of Rocks, a place so dramatically beautiful it looks like it’s been conjured up by a particularly imaginative fantasy writer. This deep, dry valley runs parallel to the coast, offering stunning views of the Bristol Channel. The jagged rock formations here have names like Castle Rock and the Devil’s Cheesewring – clearly named by someone with a flair for the dramatic. It’s said that the valley was once home to pagan demons. These days, the only demons you’re likely to encounter are the ones in your aching muscles!
Next, you’ll pass through the picturesque village of Countisbury. With its historic church perched high on the hill and charming thatched cottages, it’s like stepping into a postcard. The Blue Ball Inn, dating back to the 13th century, offers a perfect spot for a breather. If you time it right, you might even catch them serving lunch – a ploughman’s never tasted so good as when you’ve earned it with your own two feet.
Your day’s journey – and indeed, your Coleridge Way adventure – comes to an end as you descend into Lynmouth. This charming seaside town, with its picturesque harbour, is a fitting finale to your epic trek. As you make your way down the steep hill (mind your knees!), you’ll be treated to sweeping views of the Bristol Channel. The sight of the colourful houses and bobbing boats in the harbour below is enough to put a spring in even the weariest step.
As you arrive in Lynmouth, take a moment to congratulate yourself. You’ve just walked many miles through some of England’s most beautiful countryside, following in the footsteps of one of its greatest poets. Coleridge once wrote of an “ancient mariner” – well, after four days on the trail, you might feel like a bit of an ancient hiker! But what a journey it’s been.
Now, a word to the wise: while the Coleridge Way isn’t a Tough Mudder course, it’s no walk in the park either. Some sections can be steep and muddy, particularly after rain. Good boots and a decent level of fitness are essential. And while Coleridge might have found inspiration in opium, we’d recommend sticking to energy bars and plenty of water.
Whether you tackle the whole trail in one go or break it up into manageable day walks, the Coleridge Way offers a unique blend of natural beauty, literary history, and good old-fashioned British countryside. It’s a chance to step out of the rush of modern life and into a world where clouds are lonely, daffodils dance, and ancient mariners have cautionary tales to tell.
So, channel your inner Romantic poet and set forth on the Coleridge Way. You may not return with an epic poem, but you’ll certainly come back with a head full of memories and a heart full of the wild beauty of the English countryside. And who knows? You might just find your own Kubla Khan along the way – hopefully without the person from Porlock interrupting your reverie.
