Exmoor…straddling Somerset and Devon, this slice of wilderness is where moorland meets coastline, and where you’re more likely to bump into a wild pony than another person.
Exmoor’s a stunner all year round, but it’s got some seasonal tricks up its sleeve. Spring sees the moors burst into a riot of wildflowers, and you might spot some adorably wobbly-legged Exmoor pony foals. Summer’s perfect for coastal walks and picnics, while autumn paints the landscape in rich reds and golds. It’s also your best bet for catching the red deer rut – nature’s own drama show. Winter? It’s crisp and quiet, ideal for those who like their outdoors with a side of solitude and their evenings by a cosy pub fire.
Getting there’s a doddle. Hop on a train to Taunton or Exeter, then grab a bus or hire a car. Once you’re in Exmoor, a car gives you the most freedom, but don’t discount cycling or walking – there’s nothing quite like exploring at your own pace. If you’re feeling adventurous, try the Moor Rover bus service. It’ll drop you off and pick you up at various points, perfect for hikers who don’t fancy walking in circles.
Now, what to see? Dunkery Beacon is a must. It’s the highest point in the park, and on a clear day, you can see all the way to Wales. The Valley of Rocks near Lynton is like something out of a fantasy novel, complete with feral goats clambering about the cliffs. And keep your eyes peeled for those famous Exmoor ponies – Winsford Hill or Porlock Hill are good bets.
But here’s a real gem you shouldn’t miss: Watersmeet. It’s like Mother Nature decided to show off a bit, creating a spot where two rivers – the East Lyn and Hoar Oak Water – come together in a series of waterfalls and rapids. The whole scene is framed by ancient oak woodland that’s so special it’s been declared a Site of Special Scientific Interest. Fancy that, a forest so impressive it’s got its own scientific fanclub!
At Watersmeet, you’ll find a charming old fishing lodge that’s now a National Trust property. They’ve got a tea room that serves up cream teas that’ll make your taste buds do a happy dance. It’s the perfect reward after exploring one of the many walking trails that start from here. Whether you fancy a gentle riverside amble or a more challenging hike up to the moorland, Watersmeet’s got you covered.
Keep your eyes peeled while you’re there – you might spot a dipper bobbing on the rocks, a heron doing some fishing of its own, or if you’re really lucky, an otter going about its day. The woods are also home to red deer, Exmoor ponies, and various birds of prey. It’s like a real-life nature documentary, minus the dramatic voiceover.
For you ramblers out there, we’ve got trails to suit all boots. Fancy a gentle amble? Try the Tarr Steps woodland walk. Hardened hiker? Tackle a section of the South West Coast Path. And for the literary types, there’s the Coleridge Way, tracing the poet’s footsteps through some truly inspiring scenery.
Wildlife watchers, you’re in for a treat. Red deer are the stars of the show – try spotting them at dawn or dusk for the best chance. Birdwatchers should head to Porlock Marsh, while marine life enthusiasts might catch a glimpse of seals or dolphins from the coastal paths.
But here’s where Exmoor really shines – quite literally. It’s Europe’s first International Dark Sky Reserve, which is a fancy way of saying you can see an absolute bucketload of stars. On a clear night, the Milky Way stretches across the sky like nature’s own fairy lights. Wimbleball Lake and Holdstone Hill are top spots for stargazing, but honestly, just look up anywhere away from the villages, and you’re in for a treat.
Speaking of treats, don’t leave without trying some local grub. Exmoor lamb and trout are delicious, and you can’t beat a proper Devon cream tea (remember, cream first, then jam – them’s the rules). Feeling adventurous? Book a foraging tour and learn which plants won’t poison you – always handy knowledge.
A few practical tips before you go: pack layers (Exmoor weather can be as changeable as a toddler’s mood), wear sturdy boots, and check tide times before coastal walks. Oh, and bring a map – your phone’s great, but it won’t help much when the battery’s dead and you’re surrounded by sheep.
Exmoor National Park is more than just a pretty face – it’s a place where you can lose yourself (hopefully not literally) in nature, watch stars wheel overhead, and maybe, just maybe, stumble upon a hidden valley that feels like it hasn’t changed in centuries. So come on, give Exmoor a go. Just don’t blame us if you find yourself extending your stay – this wild and wonderful corner of England has a habit of stealing hearts.
